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Pomellato

text Teresa Favi

October 31, 2024

Pomellato, the purest essence of Italian beauty

Unique jewelry with an unmistakably elegant and minimalist style

Any woman recognizes a Pomellato piece of jewelry the moment she sees it because of its unmistakably elegant and minimalist style. The ‘Pomellato style’ is, in fact, based on three unique values: the first one is creativity, a source of design and art. Then comes craftsmanship, which reflects the glorious tradition of Milanese artisan techniques. Last but not least, taste, in the form of understated elegance.

A handmade luxury fine jewelry brand with over 50 years of life behind it, Pomellato was founded in Milan in 1967 by Pino Rabolini, the descendant of a family of goldsmiths. By perfectly capturing the spirit of his time, Rabolini created a new jewelry style, based on the prêt-à-porter concept and designed for modern and independent women, attuned to Milan’s fashion and design world which was rapidly expanding back then. While traditional jewelry makers had not been able to adapt to the change, Pomellato marked a turning point and introduced the quintessential Milanese elegance- never loud, never opulent, never too showy- into the jewelry world.

Little by little, he produced bolder and larger-sized models, designed to express the spirit of modern women. One of the first advertising campaigns, in fact, featured a women wearing a black turtleneck that emphasized the Pomellato jewelry she was wearing. In the meantime, at the workshops in Milan, gold became dynamic and light-weight: long chains, signature pendants, the gourmette chain.

Nudo Collection by Pomellato

Nothing more, nothing less. In the decades that followed, Pomellato experimented with soft-shaped stones, maxi-sized rings, bright colors, Helmut Newton’s or Peter Lindbergh’sadvertising campaigns.

Along with the iconic chains, the Nudo ring describes Pomellato’s passion for color and for experimenting with innovative gem-cutting techniques. The master artisans introduced a new cabochon cut with 57 irregular facets that create squared, bright and soft-to-the-touch volumes. A bold and unconventional piece of jewelry, created in 2001 as the modern version of the engagement ring. Nudo evolved into a collection with 39 color variants and 150 models.

Today Pomellato is part of the Kering group, but the meaning it attaches to ‘modernity’, which is intrinsic to the brand’s identity, is still the same: not being afraid of change and being proud of its incomparable craftsmanship tradition. Every day, at the atelier in Milan, over 100 artisans pour passion and skill into gold and gems to create extraordinary pieces of jewelry, the fruit of countless hours of accurate and creative work. Among the precious materials, in addition to rose gold and diamonds, are the colored gemstones, the brand’s new symbol and expression of the deep sense of freedom at the core of its design philosophy.

High Jewelry Collection, Skyline necklace making of

Pietre libere (free stones) is, as a matter of fact, a new way of telling about the brand, starting from the gemmological point of view, whose uniqueness is the symbol of the sophisticated know-how of Pomellato’s master artisans. From this point of view, the legendary collections, from Nudo to Sabbia up to the High Jewelry pieces, are greatly enhanced. Vincenzo Castaldo, Creative Director, says: “Nudo defines liberty in the way that the gemstone is devoid of settings and prongs. Thanks to our special cut and setting technique, we enhance the individuality of the gem. Unconstrained, the light plays with the transparency and the irregularities of the 57 facets; it is almost like a metaphor that speaks of women’s freedom as an indispensable value.”

Sabbia is Pomellato’s approach to diamond jewelry, featuring an organic and irregular pavé. The setters pick diamonds of different sizes and nuances and then skillfully set them according to a seemingly random pattern, while the gold’s slightly curved surfaces give softness and femininity to the design. The goal is sophisticated imperfection. Leaving the gemstone in its raw form, uncut, is another way for Pomellato to oppose the general trend by defying uniformity.

“We created unique jewelry - Gem Master Stefano Cortecci says - by using baroque gems as an expression of independence. When we use more conventional cuts, we express the concept of Free Stones through color, such as in the case of the high jewelry collection Ode to Milan, for which we chose a range of evocative stones in unusual, vibrant colors, capable of conveying strong feelings”. Of course, Pomellato’s creative freedom finds its expressive peak in the High Jewelry collection. The choice of colored gemstones is more daring, the pairings unexpected. In addition to the extraordinary colors of the diamond pavés, even shape sets free from rules and convention, such as with the new Charivari pavé pattern, which features fancy pear, marquise and baguette cuts, as well as free shapes. Irregular yet harmonious, it represent the free spirit that has always guided the brand.

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